Just got back from my trip to Malaysia and it was awesome. There were 9 people on the road trip, me and the other 2 Americans went with 6 other people that work here. They drove us in 2 cars and we met a guy named John who lives in Malaysia. He was pretty much our host and took care of things once we got to the restaurant. You cross a bridge that is probably about 1/2 the size of the Golden Gate and that is all that separates the 2 countries. Crossing the border was a real pain in the ass with long lines going both ways. They have separate customs so you have to wait at both the Singapore and the Malaysian borders to pass through. The bridge in the middle is said to be rigged with lots of explosives so either side can blow it up in the event of an invasion. We hoped someone didn't accidentally hit the button while we were there.
You definitely felt like you were in another country. The first thing you notice is that English is not the first language and you can't read any of the road signs. We went to a fishing village in a town called Johor Bahru. The Sing government is quite wealthy compared to Malaysia and the area was dirtier, the roads rougher and the buildings more run down looking.
It took about 2.5 hours to get there but we probably spent a good hour waiting at the border to get across. The fishing village was called Orang Asli and a long long time ago there were lots of fisherman but only a handful are left. All of the buildings are on stilts above the water. There is 2 restaurants and probably about a dozen little shacks over the water where the fisherman live. When we first pulled up we noticed a monkey up in a tree right by the road. I guess it must have been a pet because it was tethered to a rope but it was still interesting to look at it.
After we parked we realized the we were causing quite a stir. We no doubt looked like tourists snapping pictures all over the place. I bet there aren't too many white folks coming there for dinner either. There were a bunch of kids running around the village and they were quite eager to have their picture taken. After looking around for a bit we went to eat. It was outdoors and had a really big deck with a dock at the end where the small fishing boats were tied up for the night. There was also these big pens built into the water and that is where they keep the fish that they catch alive. When you order they go out there with a big net and take your dinner out of the bin. This place was very primitive. We were told it would be best not to drink the water or be prepared to suffer if we did.
Dinner was served family style and we let John order for all of us because he spoke the language we had no idea what to get. We pretty much had a seafood feast since that was the only kind of meat that they served. I ordered a coconut drink that I didn't really end up liking all that much. It wasn't the same as coconuts I had tasted other places. They brought out lots of big platters of food for us to eat. We had some sort of fish, mussles, crab cooked 2 different ways, snails, big juicy prawns (head, tail, legs, everything still intact), yes I said snails, fried rice, and some delicious bread that was made into balls and fried. It was all prepared in these big woks on the pier. I tried everything and aside from the coconut I actually like it all. The snails were much better than I thought they would be! I had a fork and a spoon but you should just plan to get messy at this type of dinner. A fork and spoon was of no use trying to get to most of the meat. It was perfectly acceptable to dig in with your fingers. The other strange thing is the only plate you got was about the size of a saucer. All the remnants of the feast were to be placed right on the table. Each person had a big stack of crab shells, shrimps parts, snail and mussel shells piled on the table in front of them when we were done. It was not the kind of meal I would eat everyday but it was a really fun experience.
Because we were right on the water ,it was slightly cooler than in Singapore and the night was absolutely beautiful. The deck was decorated with strings of white lights all around and once it got dark it had a very festive feel. They didn't really seem big on dessert there so we just sat around for a good while after dinner sipping on a beer and talking. Before today I only new the 2 guys that came from SF so everyone else in the group was new to me. I was kind of the outsider but everyone was very friendly and they made me feel comfortable.
After we wrapped things up it was just back on the bumpy roads for the trip back. It was nice just to look out the window and look at the country. Our Malaysian host was driving his father in law's BMW and he was actually concerned about leaving after dark. I guess things really aren't all that safe there because he said sometimes people in cars like that will get robbed. I guess you take that kind of stuff for granted in both the US and Singapore. On the way back there was a 3 minute downpour. I guess this is common in the tropical environment but the rain came out of nowhere, it rained for literally a couple of minutes and then just went away. I was glad we were still sitting on the deck of the fishing village. Gotta get in bed, time to work again tomorrow.
